Downtown Ajmer and Pushkar

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The present urban fabric of many cities and towns in India have their roots in the late 19th c and early 20th c, especially the “old town”/”old city” parts of town. Individual structures in these places may be older, but as functional urban entities, this is usually how old the urban landscape is. I’ve become really interested in these parts of town, and while visiting Ajmer recently sought it’s “downtown” out. Pushkar as a whole seems to be from that era. Continue reading →

Khatu

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Khatu is the location of one of the four mosques I had discussed in my Four Ghurid Mosques post. The mosque is of significant historical importance, but the rest of the town is pretty intriguing as well. For me, Khatu is an example of the hundreds of small towns across India that have enough going in terms of architectural and urban history to warrant interest by conservators (and even tourists). Unfortunately the town lies in the middle of nowhere both literally and figuratively. Continue reading →

Srinagar’s Mosques and Shrines

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Most of Srinagar’s most famous shrines and mosques lie within or close to the old city. The architecture of these monuments is unique, mostly constructed of wood and brick/stone masonry, with multi-levelled sloping roofs and tall spires reminiscent of Hindu and Buddhist religious structures from the western and central Himalayas. They have elaborately and beautifully ornate polychromatic interiors finished with wood and papier-mache. Continue reading →

Jageshwar

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I had visited Jageshwar around 10 years ago for a short while on the way to Pataal-Bhuvaneshwar, and always wanted to get back there because I remembered the setting and temples to be beautiful. The main Jageshwar temple complex consists of a collection of large temples and smaller shrines all in close proximity, and it’s really nice to walk and sit around the temples. Continue reading →

Monastery and Pagoda at Sravasti

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While at Sravasti I came across this interesting monastery, which I’m assuming was built around the 1950s/60s, and started by people from Korea or Japan. The architecture is a fascinating mix of colonial bungalow, typical residential embellishments from the 50s – which include a mix of watered-down art deco and watered-down modernism, Hindu temple elements, early-Buddhist elements, ‘East Asian’ pagodas and torans etc etc. I especially love the pagoda made of brick and concrete with an octagonal base that could be part of a government or residential building anywhere in India from that time. The ‘temple’ at the back is very interesting as well! Continue reading →

Temples in Technicolo(u)r

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A while back at one of Delhi’s vanguard ethnic-chic stores, I found a novelty postcard on sale (very tongue-in-cheekily), with an image of a gaudily decorated goupram from the Sri Ranganathaswamy temple at Trichy in south India. I bought the postcard thinking the goupram must be uniquely kitschy in it’s sculpture and color palette, and was planning to post a scan of it on my blog as stand-alone kitsch. Here’s the postcard image: Continue reading →

Bangalore & Somnathpur

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Back in August I visited a friend in Bangalore, and while I did not have much time to explore the city, I took some on-the-fly photos of the places we drove by, through his car window. I wanted to get a sense of “contemporary” and “changing” Bangalore, i.e. the high-tech city that is supposed to be India’s answer to silicon valley. Continue reading →